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Shooting High Dynamic Range Images
Welcome to InFocus, this article will explore HDRi or High Dynamic Range imaging. The idea of this technique is to create an image with the most complete range of depth you can achieve from the highlights to the shadows. It is done by exposing for detail in both the highlight and shadows and combining them into a 32 bit file, then manipulating the combined image to show both.
The initial image exposures are done by bracketing the exposures but this requires a still subject. You might be able to get away with using a short bracket on subjects that are vulnerable to motion like trees. Otherwise you will get artifacts along the edges. Another technique will allow you to use a single image and creating your highlight, normal and shadow "exposures" from the raw 16 bit files from your camera. We will be exploring both.
For the first technique you should use a nice sturdy tripod that does not allow motion over a number of exposures. I use a Bogen 3051 a heavy duty tripod that I use to use for studio work, it is sturdy enough to easily support a 4x5 camera. Also you'll need a good shutter release cable to minimize possibly moving the camera by touching the shutter while exposing over the bracket. Some cameras have an auto-bracketing function that will allow you to set it for a number of different exposures above and below normal. You can use a minimum bracket of 3 shots I usually use 7, each a stop over and under the normal exposure. So you will have 3 over exposed shots up to 3 stops over, and 3 under exposed shots 3 stops under. You do not have to use all of the shots to combine for the final workable image. You can choose which images have the highlight and shadow details you which to work with. You can also go to half stops or third stops for a little more refinement.
If you don't have auto-bracketing you will have to do it the old fashion way. Just make sure you bracket using the shutterspeed and not the aperture, to maintain the detail in the depth of field. Unless of course that is the effect you are looking for.
HDR imaging can be achieved using only Photoshop CS2 and with improved controls on CS3, or you can use a nifty program called Photomatix by HDR Soft. To me Photomatix makes the process easier and the results are outstanding. The images are then opened in whatever flavor of Photoshop you desire for final editing.
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